Mary Katrantzou's graduating show in 2008 mapped out her signature stye, themed around trompe l'oeil prints of oversized jewellery featured on jersey-bonded dresses. Mary Katrantzou's first ready-to-wear collection debuted at London Fashion Week in spring/summer 2009, with the support of the BFC and the NEWGEN Scheme. Despite only having a small collection of nine dresses, Katrantzou picked up 15 prestigious stockists including Browns, Joyce and Colette. The designer achieved show status the following season, for A/W 2009. She now boasts over 250 stockists in 60 countries including from Saks, Joyce, Colette, Selfridges, Harrods, Bergdorf Goodman, Matchesfashion.com and Net-a-Porter.com.
Mary’s earlier collections revolved around an icon of luxury, an object from art or design that a woman would not be able to wear if it were real. These seasons saw collections inspired by vintage perfume bottles, the interiors of old issues of Architechtural Digest, objects of art, postage stamps all while keeping the printed image central to her aesthetic. As her aesthetic has developed and her brand, grown, recent seasons have redefined her signature, focusing more on surface design and textiles, expanding her range beyond digital print while still keeping a theme central to her ideas.
Autumn/Winter 2014 prompted a real shift in direction and was her first step away from print, taking her experiments with fabric development and textile innovation to a more refined level, incorporating colour and pattern into her designs through other mediums including embroidery and fabric construction. Frequently described in the press as one of London Fashion Week’s brightest stars, each Katrantzou show is one of the most eagerly anticipated on the show calender.