An Interview with Isabelle Fish, Founder of Rue Pigalle

Rue Pigalle creates bespoke trips for jewellery and art lovers who want to peer behind the curtain of the makers spaces and expand their minds by exploring beyond the obvious.

We caught up with Founder Isabelle Fish to discuss how jewellery can tell a story, the careful curation of her bespoke trips and why the emotional connection with handmade objects is more important than ever.

LCW: What initially led you in to jewellery and bespoke trip planning as a career?

IF: It was a chance encounter really. About 15 years ago we moved from the UK to Calgary in Canada. I was a lawyer but not sure where my career was going to take me after the move.

I met an amazing woman called Roslyn who had just opened a little shop of French fashion jewelry and accessories. She asked me to help her out a few hours a week. I discovered the world of jewelry, art, fashion and retail. We then moved to Toronto where I opened my own jewelry gallery. I specialised in independent artists and designers from Europe, introducing them to my North American clients.

I just loved making that connection between the maker and the wearer, sharing the story of the artists, and learning about jewelry in general. The natural progression was to bring the clients to the artists in their studios. My clients always wanted to come with me on my scouting trips, so I closed the boutique and started curating itineraries to various cities where jewellery events take place. My itineraries are all about jewellery and the artists. I am in awe of makers, their skills, their inspiration, their ability to communicate feelings and emotions through their art. It’s extraordinary. 

LCW: What does your typical day look like?

IF: I am usually up at 4.30am and my mornings are dedicated to deskwork including research, emails, writing my blog and creating itineraries.

Lunch is an opportunity to catch up with clients, meet new artists or other business contacts. The face to face is very important to me, with overseas contacts I try to skype as much as possible rather than exchange emails. It is so much more efficient and enriching.

I spend a lot of time scouting stores, going to exhibits, checking out what’s new in Toronto to get a sense of what people like, what’s new. In the evening I read more about jewelry and what’s happening in Europe and other art centres. One of my challenges is to keep in touch with what’s happening outside Canada to make sure I offer the best and most exclusive to my clients. I travel a lot as I only take my clients to places I have visited myself. I do not rely on third party reviews. For every trip I do a dry run first, check every hotel, restaurant, meet every artist, gallery. It’s a great privilege to be able to do so.

LCW: What is the connection between jewellery and travel?

IF: It’s the stories. Both jewellery and travels are about human stories. Have you noticed that when you compliment someone on a piece of jewellery, she will automatically launch into where it comes from, how she acquired it and who made it? The jewellery we wear says a lot about ourselves, it’s a way for us to communicate who we are and to tell our story. In travelling we want to learn other people’s stories, bring them back home, compare our story to theirs. We want to enrich our story with that of others. So when you purchase a piece of jewellery while travelling, you have so many layers in the story you can tell. I find it fascinating.

LCW: What are the most important factors when planning a bespoke trip?

IF: Listen to your clientele carefully to offer them the right mix of enriching, fun and unexpected activities. My guests are well travelled and very connected with cultural and societal trends so it’s important I give them an experience they cannot find anywhere else.

I see myself as opening doors for them to the marvellous world of jewellery and craftsmanship. At the end of the day, it’s really about the intimate and personal connections we make with each other. That’s why our experiences are limited to small, select groups of just ten likeminded people. When we meet the artists in their studios, listen to their life stories and see the workbench and tools they use with their own hands, we close the circle between who we are and whose work we wear.

The itinerary must also have enough flexibility that it can accommodate a guest’s personal requests during the trip. I have just the right number of guests so we can have that personal touch. 

LCW: What role does bespoke craftsmanship and making have in society?

IF: To my mind, its principal role is to create a human connection and bring beauty into our daily lives. Craftsmanship is the skill to make something beautiful by hand.

Everything seems to be reduced to its practicality and cost (as low as possible). It’s a soulless, emotionless approach that is not sustainable from an economic and societal point of view. We need human-to-human connections in our daily lives and craftsmanship ensures it happens. When we are told that an object has been made by hand, we connect to it, we respect it, we value it because we know that it represents someone’s labour. We never experience that connection when we buy an industrial product no matter how beautiful or expensive it is. Craft is taught from generation to generation, it ensures continuity, transmission of values of quality, excellence, hard work and patience. Craftsmanship is grounding – you have to touch the material to make the object. It can’t be virtual.

LCW: Can you tell us about any upcoming trips?

IF: I have 4 upcoming trips in 2019. I have London from 7 – 14 May in collaboration with London Craft Week. We have created an exclusive 8-day itinerary of private events and experiences, which will be an exceptional opportunity to connect with artists, visit unexpected venues, learn from the best in their field, discover unique skills and talents.

Paris and Provence from 6 ā€“ 14 June, where we’ll be discovering how nature is inspiring jewellery artists through private visits of historical landmarks, ateliers, private collections and even a philosophy lecture. October 10 ā€“ 18 we are attending Barcelona Jewellery Week. It’s a feast of art jewellery. We will also go to Lisbon which has a very rich jewellery scene.

Then in November from 20 ā€“ 24, we attend New York Jewellery Week – there are almost 100 events throughout Manhattan. It’s spectacular.

Website: ruepigalle.ca

Instagram: @ruepigalletoronto

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LCW: The February Edit

Brutal Textures: Sculptural Ceramic Course
From Sat 2nd March  

Make a ceramic sculpture inspired by the Brutalist Architecture of the Barbican in a month-long course with Artist Matt Raw. You’ll learn a number of different techniques, and the final pieces will be displayed collectively at the Barbican Centre for LCW 2019.

Image credit: Matt Raw

Be a TOAST New Maker
Apply before Weds 13th Feb 

TOAST are seeking makers of all disciplines to apply for their New Makers programme. The initiative will support and mentor five emerging makers by offering business and marketing advice, as well as a platform to sell their pieces. The winners’ pieces will be displayed for LCW 2019.

Image credit: TOAST


Urban Potters: Makers in the City
Available now – published by Ludion.  

Design Journalist Katie Treggiden explores the contemporary revival of ceramics in London, Copenhagen, New York, Sao Paulo and Tokyo. The book focuses on each city’s young and passionate makers and introduces their studios, their work and their inspiration. 


Image credit: Yeshen Venema

Making is Good for You: The Heritage Craft Association Conference
Saturday 9th March – 10am – 4.45pmAs mental health remains high on the political agenda, this full-day event will shine a light on the link between making and improved wellbeing through a series of talks with Jay Blades, Celia Pym and Lawrence Neal. 


Image credit: Heritage Craft Association​ – Kate Hetherington, Collar and harness maker

For LCW programme updates, plus news, offers, partner events & more, sign-up to our newsletter by clicking here.

Maker in Focus: Loraine Rutt

In this month’s Maker in Focus interview, we spoke to ceramic globe maker Loraine Rutt on being inspired by historic cartographers, creating a moon globe for an Apollo 15 astronaut, the importance of collaboration, and her advice for aspiring craftspeople.

LCW: What does your typical day look like?

LR: Often I wake quite early and the quiet stillness allows the better of my creative thoughts to filter to the top. I’ve learnt not to worry about making notes and sketches in the wee small hours as I think the good ideas will hopefully stick around.

By mid-morning it’s generally studio time. There’s a lot of different stages to making the globes and cases, so I tend to work in small batches, making 4 or 5 globes one week, and a similar amount of cases another.

The larger wall pieces like the Segment series involve quite an intense amount of focus. The first edition took take around a thousand hours to model the 24 relief segments to scale in wafer-thin porcelain layers.

On the rare occasion I stop for lunch it’s a treat to sit with my lovely neighbours in our courtyard at the Arches Studios. Most days are at least 12 hours, but when you thoroughly enjoy your work it tends to fly by.

LCW: What initially led you in to craft as a career?

LR: It was a sideways step really. I’d always loved maps so when I’d just left school aged 16 and saw a job as apprentice cartographer at Birkbeck College I leapt at the chance. Both my primary and secondary schools had brilliant teachers who embraced art and craft and I was lucky to work with clay from about the age of 9. Whilst I loved drawing maps I knew I was happier making things so did some evening classes at Putney School of Art where Esperanza Romero was teaching. She was really complimentary about what I was making and talked about the ceramics degree she had recently completed. I applied to Central (St Martin’s) and to my joy I got in! It was a life changing experience.

LCW: What role does craftsmanship and making have in society?

LR: Room for creativity has been sadly squeezed from the curriculum, but it is so very important. Not just for sowing the seed for budding artists and makers, but for all careers. The problem solving and inventiveness required when working with materials can give children, and adults the confidence to flourish in other areas too. Thankfully the education sector is starting to realise this, and there is a move, starting from the ground up, to factor in more time and budget for art and making.

LCW: What are the positives and negatives about being a craftsperson?

LR: ā€˜Expect the worst and hope for the best’ is my approach in the studio. Being a craftsperson, working in my own studio is mainly a positive experience, I enjoy the freedom of making what I want to make, and experimenting, although there are moments when the ā€˜expectations’ unfortunately get the upper hand. I spent a long time (over two years) trying different ways to make the pocket globes and the cases, with many disappointments along the way, but when I started to get the results I was seeking, everything just came together.

It’s a positive joy collaborating with other craftspeople. I work with wood turner Richard Findley, a specialist box maker Tom Aylwin, and gilder Gary Gronnestadt. Mia of Sabel Saddlery taught me how to make the bespoke leather covered cases.

On the negative side, the hours can be tough, I left a 9-5, 5 day a week job 30 years ago and now I do 9-9, 7 days a week. It is immensely satisfying though being able to play a part in the giving of bespoke gifts. I get to travel vicariously through commissioned globes, and share a small part in the gift giving. The first ever order for a bespoke globe placed on my website asked for an inscription ā€˜Jacqui – Marry Me?’ I was slightly nervous at making the carrier of this important message. I was delighted to receive the news that Jacqui said yes.

LCW: What are you most proud of?

LR: There’s been a few self-pinching moments recently, one of which was showing my tiny Moon Globes to an Apollo 15 astronaut that had been there and mapped 75% of the lunar surface. When I met him again a year later he told me that he loved my work, kept my globes on his desk, and asked if I would be interested in doing a limited edition. So this year sees the launch (pardon the pun) of The Al Worden Lunar Globe commemorating 50th Anniversary of the Lunar Landings.

Another highpoint last year was being commissioned by The National Maritime Museum to make a Pocket Globe for their permanent collection. And I’m chuffed to bits to have been asked to lend my Peckham Postcard series, which charts the disappearance of the River Peck to The Museum of London for their Secret Rivers exhibition in Docklands this summer.

LCW: Who or what inspires your work?

LR: Not one thing or person, but indeed many. I was lucky to have been taught by inspirational ceramicists at Central. Richard Slee’s work is so immaculately made, original, and with such a wry wit it never fails to make me smile. Eileen Nisbett and Gillian Lowndes were both pioneers of pushing the medium in very different directions and were incredibly generous teachers.

Some of my edition pieces are hat-tipping acknowledgement to inspirational historic cartographers. The finesse and incredible level of detail contained within maps never ceases to inspire me. Emery Molyneux travelled with Drake on his second circumnavigation of the globe in 1577-80 then made the first English Globes, one of which survives at Petworth House, and another in Middle Temple. Social geographer Charles Booth mapped the social status of every inner London house in the 1890’s, and by doing so highlighted the extent of poverty in city. I have some experimental work in progress at the moment for some geology pieces inspired by William Smith, who single handedly and pretty correctly drew the first geological map of the UK; Marie Tharp who drew the first maps of the ocean floor; and Phyllis Pearsal who walked the entire streets of London to map the A-Z.

LCW: What is the one piece of advice you’d give to an aspiring craftsperson?

LR: Go and look at as much craft as possible, and keep an open mind about what you’d like to make and try as many materials as you can. Make the most of London Craft Week and also sign up for newsletters from The Crafts Council, there are many workshops to take part in. Trust in your own ability to make original work. If you are interested in being a maker then it is just a matter of research, practice and time and following your heart.

Website: www.thelittleglobeco.com

Instagram: @the_little_globe_co

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Win a screen-printing masterclass with The Conran Shop

We’ve partnered withĀ The Conran ShopĀ to offer one lucky subscriber the chance to winĀ an exclusive two-person masterclass atĀ Make-Ready’sĀ world-renowned North London print studio.

The grand prize will transport the winner and their plus one behind the screens of this iconic print house to learn the craft of screen-printing from Make-Ready’s expert printers and take away with your very own one-of-a-kind masterpieces.

To be in with a chance of winning, please answer the following question and enter your details in the fieldsĀ below. Competition closes at midnight on 18 March 2019.

 

 

 

 

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LCW: The January Edit

Sensory Preference in Prosthetics Study: London
Sat Jan 26 — Sun Jan 27 

In an effort to inform and develop the design of prosthetic limbs, this research study explores people’s preferences and experiences of materials in prosthetics. These sessions will be run over two days by Caitlin McMullan, a designer, researcher and below knee amputee, and Sarah Wilkes, a materials researcher, at the Institute of Making. Read more

Exploring Forgiveness and the meaning of Peace with Carrie Fertig
Sat Sep 29 — Sun Mar 24 

Carrie Fertig invites visitors to share their stories and explore emotions of anger, resentment, shame and the process of forgiveness through an engaging experience of sound, moving image, and installation. The installation is on display at LCW 2018 partner the National Glass Centre. Read more

The inkblot looked like me by Susumu Matsuura
Tues Jan 29

The Daiwa Anglo-Japanese Foundation offers an exclusive look at Susumu Matsuura’s latest work and a discussion about his inspirations. “The works on show at the Foundation have ā€œhuman feelingsā€ as their main theme”. The exhibition is open for public viewing until 28 Feb. Read more

The latest craft news 

The State of Fashion 2019

This report, a result of a collaboration between The Business of Fashion (BoF) and McKinsey & Company, provides insight into the future of the global fashion industry in 2019, an overview of the market status as well as a look into the current and forthcoming trends affecting the industry. Read more

Chanel’s vision for the new year
Chanel, the Parisian luxury brand, welcomes the new year with the establishment of the London headquarters and changes to their management structure. Moreover; the fashion house has also embraced a no fur no exotic skins policy towards their production line. Read more

Luxury brands adapt to embrace a new digital world 

Millennials and Generation Z consumers make up over 30% of all luxury spending. Their spending behaviours are increasingly influenced by online activity – so how can luxury brands adapt their digital strategies whilst remaining authentic? Read more.

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Maker in Focus: Jane Crisp

In this month’s Maker in Focus interview, we spoke to trug maker Jane Crisp about her love for wood from a young age, her inspiration from nature, how she uses boat builder’s techniques and the importance of pushing boundaries through experimentation as a craftsperson.

Jane Crisp’s is part of the maker community at The Room Service, her work was featured at the talk and demonstration, ā€œCanapĆ©s, Ceramics & Conversation: with Roux Scholar Dan Cox and The Room Serviceā€ during LCW 2018.

LCW: What is your background?

JC: I’ve always loved making and I have been drawn to wood from a young age. I travelled quite a lot when I was younger and then after settling down in Norfolk, I began to educate myself with the skills I needed to realise my designs. I went to college and then Bucks New Uni and studied furniture design and craft. I graduated and set up my business making trugs from borrowed spaces. I now live in Hale Fen, Cambridgeshire working from my home studio and lovely purpose-built workshop.    

 

LCW: How have you developed your career? Was there a pivotal moment that drew you to your craft?

JC: My pivotal moment or DNA of my practice happened when I lived on a boat. I started making things to help me live and I was inspired by the nature that surrounded me. I became interested in tradition and evolutionary crafts. My trugs are a direct example of this moment, they are built using boat-builder’s techniques, steam-bending and clinker construction, the components shapes are inspired by the reeds that line the fields and rivers and if you catch them in the wind they will rock like boats.

I got my work out there entering competitions and exhibiting at shows. I was a Crafts Council Hothouse participant. Being under the Crafts Council umbrella really helped and I got coverage in lots of magazines and won awards at shows. I have built relationships with some great companies most recently started working with a wonderful new company called The Room Service www.theroomservice.co who sell beautiful pieces of craft, as seen in design-led spaces such as hotels and restaurants. They really understand what I do and portray the special details in my designs perfectly. Being involved with them and being a part of their incredible curation has really built my confidence and propelled me in the craft world. It seems to have snowballed and lots of new and exciting opportunities have appeared for my business.

 

LCW: What does your typical day look like?

JC: I start with a coffee and check my weekly planner and work out what making I have to do during the day. I sit and check my emails and notifications, slurping my coffee whilst adding jobs to my lists. I run around the house tidying up and then open the workshop, always by nine or before, I get the heater on and clean, hoover and set up for making. I’m already in the zone by this point, I feel more relaxed now I’m outside and there’s pace, enthusiasm and rhythm to my work. I have to balance this though with focus like any practise or discipline. I try to come in from my workshop by five, light a fire cook, eat and work on my designs and my laptop.    

LCW: What role does craft and making have in society?

JC: Craft says something, reminds you of something, craft creates dialect, an emotional language of its own. It’s engineering solutions to aid living and something that’s treasured and passed down through thousands of years of evolution. It brings biophilic design to interiors, connects us to nature and brings culture, personality and joy to our lives. It challenges our thinking and pushes new limits. Most of all though it brings people together as they share knowledge, craft stories and enthusiasm.    

 

LCW: How long does it take for someone to really build confidence in their craft?

JC: I am building confidence in my craft and it’s hugely satisfying. I don’t know if it ever fully happens but I’m sure this is part of the attraction. It’s like figuring things out all the time and pushing things further so it grows and never ends. I began by pushing traditional craft practises to expose the properties of materials and create the ā€œhow-did-you-do-thatā€ factor. At university, I made a steam-bent desk called the paper trail of life. There were no uprights and the piece relied on triangulating the joints for structural strength. I asked my tutor if he thought it would work and he said I don’t know. It worked and I sold the piece but this way of working has a lot of unknowns. It creates identity within my work but also loads of experimentation and product development work.

 

LCW: What are the positives/negatives about being a craftsperson? 

JC: Every day when I get outside and into my workshop, I feel grateful that I’m able to make for a living. I go a little crazy if don’t make and when I do I’m at my best. I really hate spiders and I can be isolated at my busiest times.  

LCW: What’s one thing you would most like to own?

JC: A wood with a river connected to the waterway system and a mooring with a narrow boat. I would use the timber to make my work, coppice, manage the woodland, forage and build a big tree house cabin. I would, of course, need a pole lathe, workshop and wind turbine with water on sight. It would be something to nurture, preserve and pass down. 

 

LCW: Is there another career path that you could have chosen? 

JC: I have been a volunteer at Oxburgh Hall in Norfolk for nearly a year and I love it. I’m a Conservation Assistant working close up with the collection. The more I’ve become a part of the story of Oxburgh the more I’ve fallen in love with the house. I’ve gained knowledge through amazing National Trust courses and inspiration creatively. I’ve got three new sculptures and a product range based on the house that I will be releasing next year to help raise money for the Raise the Roof restoration project happening in 2019. I love getting close up with the craftsmanship and I actually love learning about history and preserving it for the future.

 

LCW: Do you have someone that you idolize? Craftsperson or otherwise. 

JC: Sebastian Cox is someone I really look up to. He was a mentor for me during the Hothouse program. I saw some of his sketches and technical drawings at a presentation and they were fascinating. I love the way he pushes new processes and creates a strong identity. He is also a woodsman, an extremely talented maker and a great businessman too.

 

LCW: What is craft to you? What does it represent?

JC: Craft for me is my place to go, a place where I can truly be myself. It’s who I am and I am my craft. It’s my respect for materials and an expression of myself. I go to craft to celebrate and create but also to be in the now and forget everything else. Craft represents thoughts of others, tales and mythologies passed down. It represents history and amplifies tales of eras, technologies, scientific developments and cultural beliefs.  

Dates Announced for London Craft Week 2016

The inaugural London Craft Week saw 78 events with over 27,000 visits from collectors, buyers, as well as those interested in art, craft, and design.

Visitors were able to meet over 368 independent makers, see demonstrations, buy, collect or have a go at making through a journey of discovery programme including studios and workshops as well as shops, department stores, galleries and museums across London.

We are now planning an ambitious programme for 2016 which will run from 3 to 7 May. We look forward to seeing you next year, until then keep in touch through twitter at #LCW2016. 

Walpole Crafted applications still open

Applications for the 2015 Crafted Mentoring Programme, with patron Vacheron Constantin and co-sponsored by Redman, Whitely Dixon and Fortnum & Mason, are now open.

Skilled designer makers interested in developing the commercial side of their business with the help of luxury industry leaders will have one month to apply for the programme. Now in its eighth year, the annual Walpole Crafted programme provides one-to-one mentorship and a series of developmental workshops for up to 10 individuals and businesses each year. Applications close on Monday 22nd September. For more information please contact Keri Beak at keri.beak@walpolebritishluxury.co.uk